Being on the road to Sarajevo from Kotor was some of the most surprisingly beautiful scenery we had enjoyed yet. We were ready to go, having spent a day in Kotor not doing much. It took about an hour to wind our way out of the Bay of Kotor (Brendan was driving today), and start to climb north through smaller Montenegrin mountains to a vista overlooking the bay. Then we continued to wind to the border crossing with Bosnia and Herzegovina. This crossing was pretty reasonable, but still took 30 minutes. And also this time, no random 5 Euro fee in bills and not coins on the entry in to Bosnia. We did alter our route slightly to what Google recommended as the fastest time to try to avoid a fairly mountainous and minor looking road in Montenegro, opting instead to head due west towards Bosnia. This put our border crossing earlier on the route. Unfortunately, the border crossing took a while as well – it wasn’t staffed to the level it needed to be to handle traffic, and it was confusing in that there were multiple lanes that eventually all merged together, giving people an opportunity to cut (which….
For the rest of the day, we were relaxing in Kotor – walking around souvenir shopping and admiring this beautiful UNESCO city in the (finally!) sunny weather. We were definitely not too tired from our late morning hike and felt energized to continue exploring the city. We found some cool bits of hidden art nestled throughout the city. The egg on the right was nestled in a courtyard, whose gates I had to open to find it. It didn’t seem private so I walked in to explore. Other tourists walking by saw what I was doing and pretty soon everyone flooded in. I also was able to take some time composing artistic photograph setups like this one. What a perfect day to spend relaxing in Kotor! We stopped for a bite to eat at Konoba Kantun and enjoyed some cold beverages (I’ve been enjoying the Aperol Spritz a little too much) and a cheese platter on their terrace in the square. Prices were very reasonable and the atmosphere was great for a late lunch/snack. We definitely felt like we were relaxing in Kotor, and were glad to get away from the crowds in the major squares. Continuing our quest for….
Since you can basically max out the Kotor old town and historical context in a day, we were able to use our second day to relax as well as hiking Kotor. Even though we only had 2 nights and not 3 in Kotor, this was an opportunity to take it easy that we relished. After an above average hotel breakfast (but nothing beat the breakfast we had in Ljubljana), we set out for hiking Kotor by finding the path up the mountain from an alleyway in the old town. We found it towards the west side after a bit of searching, and unfortunately were met by a pay gate. Brendan remembered reading something about there being a secondary entrance that was free outside the city, so we set out to find it. On our walk, we ran in to these cuties rambunctiously playing. The old name for Kotor, Cattaro, was certainly fitting. The free entrance to get up to the fortress and hiking Kotor was actually from a path behind the parking lot we used on the northwest side of the city. You can see the paid access path inside the city walls with the squiggly line. Here’s a view….
We wheeled our suitcases from the parking lot and easily found our lodging in Kotor, Hotel Vardar, at the end of the entrance square. Check-in was easy and they had a parking spot open up in their lot – farther away but 10 Euros a day. We immediately went and moved our car after checking in. This was a proper hotel, and we felt it was a huge upgrade since our Dubrovnik room – it was nice to have a little space. We set out to see the city for the remaining daylight hours and thought a walking tour would be a good idea. It was around 1630, however, and all the tour agencies were closed and next availability online would be the following day. So we went back to reception and asked if the hotel could arrange anything – and they did. A guide, Nina, showed up almost immediately, we negotiated a fair price of 30 Euros total and she met us back at 1800 to commence the tour. The weather held up at first, but after about 30 minutes it started to rain, then pour, then pour cats and dogs. In between, we still managed to have a….
Today was all about traveling south from Dubrovnik to explore the Dalmation Coast in Montenegro, on our way to Kotor. The previous day we had some time to explore Dubrovnik, and take a Game of Thrones tour. We were ultimately glad that we only stayed for two nights given the crowds and touristic maturity of the city. We were not sure what to expect for Kotor, but we did know it was also another cruise stop (my parents had visited a few years ago). After an hour continuing through Croatia, we crossed the border to Montenegro to continue the drive down the Dalmatian Coast in Montenegro. Look at those awesome Junipers! The route we took was called the Adriatic Highway. The border crossing took a while, I’m not going to lie – and then it took even more of a while on the Montenegrin side (since you have to go through two checkpoints, one for each country). Travel blogs recommend going through Bosnia & Herzegovina to avoid making this particular crossing. But, once through, the views of the Dalmatian Coast in Montenegro was spectacular – so it was worth it for us, plus we had nowhere to be, so to….